Tanjung Piai Resort (Diamonds In The Muck)

It was not the best of first impressions. Firstly, there was no through road for vehicles of guests to the Tanjung Piai Resort, the only accommodation closest to the southern most tip of Asia. We had to cross two bridges to get to the reception area, with the luggage pulled in a clanking, monstrous metal cart.

The second thing that really hit me was the flies. They were like something out of a movie. Truly. It was a swarm of flies, right out to the Seven Plagues of Egypt. The fly electrocuter was sounding at every minute, with that scary, clinical zap! zap! zzzappp! and the the staff were sweeping up piles, and I mean PILES of flies. Straight off I told the guy at the counter that I may have booked for two nights but I may stay for only one. He assured me the flies were a rarity - it was spawning season in the mangroves, he explained, but I was not convinced.

I was even more distressed to find those noisome insects following me to the room. And in the room itself, although I was glad to discover there was air conditioning (thanks to being scared pantless by the birding photographers!) but no (drum roll... toilet paper!). It was obviously not a mod con as far as this 'resort' was concerned. I had to request for it at the reception. Yikes! For RM174 a night, I've stayed in better motels! There wasn't even a shower curtain to enact the bathroom scene from Psycho!

We were so far from anywhere (Tanjung Piai is about 90 km from Johor Baru, through small, one lane country roads), and there was little choice as to what to eat, save the restaurant in the resort.

I was prepared for an austerity drive, but was most pleasantly surprised. Firstly, the menu items were reasonabable. OK, who am I kidding? It was cheap! Secondly, although we were the only customers, the kitchen had everything stocked. And they tasted fresh enough. It was a near relief to tuck into a kingly repast.

Air Kathira.

To celebrate I had an usual drink called Air Kathira. The RM3 beverage was a mix of milk and watermelon, coloured green. New to me, but quite nice once the initial surprise wore off.

We had rice, which came quite nicely presented, with fried shallots and fresh garnishing on top. Each portion was RM1.50.

The garnishing and pretty napkin sold me!

We had a vegetable soup, which was hot and hearty. The bowl cost RM6 and was chock-a-block with lots of crunchy greens.

Vegetable soup.

My fried squid was the winner of the day. I remember eating these small baby squid in this similar style in Restaurant SEA in PJ as a young kid. Run by a Mrs Siew, that restaurant was one of the best seafood places, and the family was very sorry when it was sold to another person. Back to the squid of the present: the small critters were dredged through turmeric (kunyit) and flash fried, resulting in an aromatic, crispy yet chewy mouthful. The only way it could have been bettered would have been with some killer, fresh-made chilli sauce. The RM9 tag more than made up for that lack, though!

Baby squid fried in turmeric.

Intent on keeping myself well-fibred up this trip, I ordered a large stir-fried kailan. It came stir-fried with finely diced red chillies. An unusual way to present the dish, but quite palatable to me. Again, at RM9, it was another well-priced item.

Stir-fried kailan with chilli.

The luxury purchase this meal (although if you ask Kit, everything was unnecessary and a tribute to gluttony), was a dish of steamed prawns. They were the priciest item on the bill at RM28, but still a sight cheaper than if I ate them in KL. Again, I was well-pleased with the taste and structure of the dish. Simply done, with just its own sweet juices, and a dash of garlic and onion and chilli, the prawns were briny sweet, of a decent size, and very fresh.

Steamed prawns.

The bill for two (for food which could have fed four!) was RM63.60. A really good spend. And why not, since I am far from the comfort of home (and unlimited toilet paper!)

Restoran Atan
Tanjung Piai Resort
Johor
Tel: +607 696 0011